Always one of Bordeaux’s most endearing and charming wines, Croix de Labrie’s wines generally offer an unctuous texture as well as enormous quantities of fruit. Made from 100% Merlot, the 2009 (about 300 cases produced) exhibits smoky black currant and raspberry liqueur notes intermixed with notions of licorice, graphite and wood smoke. Intense and unctuously textured with low acidity as well as sweet tannin, it is a hedonistic St.-Emilion fruit bomb to enjoy in its first 12-15 years of life. Sadly, it is virtually impossible to find this head-turning claret.